- TABANAN PRACTICALITIES
The main place to stay in Tabanan is the mountain resort of Bedugul, famed for its cool climate and spectacular lakes, mountains and rice fields. Penebel offers hot springs with modern facilities. Krambitan is the place for an unusual stay in a royal palace. Tabanan's west coast is being developed as Bali's newest beach resort-with miles of deserted black sand and a pounding surf. See area map on page 208. Prices in US dollars. AC = Air conditioning. Telephone codes as noted.
Bali - Bedugul
Telephone code is 0368
A pleasant climate, splendid views, water sports on scenic Lake Bratan, botanical gardens, fresh tropical fruits and vegetables-these are but a few of the things Bedugul offers. Located 1,500 m above sea level, it gets chilly by late afternoon, so bring your sweater. This is a favorite weekend retreat for Jakartans and the local Balinese bourgeoisie.
Bedugul's layout can be somewhat confusing, especially if you arrive in late afternoon after the clouds have descended. Coming from the south, there are two signposts to watch out for: "Bedugul 0.2 km" and "Bedugul." One might expect to find the village here, but instead the road turns sharply to the left, with a smaller road leading off to the right. The latter leads to the Bedugul Hotel on the southwestern shore of the lake.
The main road continues past a number of hotels on the left until it reaches the village of Bedugul proper. Here you find shops, a few restaurants, a bank, telephone office (wartel, a market selling local produce (including flowers, coffee and vanilla) and a lane leading up to the botanical gardens (Kebun Raya).
Beyond the village the road descends towards the lake, turning left at the Ashram Hotel. The road then continues north to Candi Kuning. On the right hand side is the entrance to the Pura Ulun Danu and other temples. A line of souvenir shops indicates the way. A fee of Rpl,000 is required to enter the temple.
The walk from Bedugul market to the Ashram Hotel takes about 10 minutes. The temples on the shore are another 10 minutes further on. From the market to the entrance of the botanical gardens takes about 15 minutes on foot.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Bedugul is situated on the main road connecting north and south Bali. It is the perfect place to stop for a night on an island tour. Rent a car and explore the area at you own pace.
If you are going by public transport, catch a bemo from Ubung terminal in Denpasar to Bedugul for Rp3,000. The fare is the same from Singaraja. The nicest way to get around Bedugul is on foot in the invigorating mountain air. Or charter a bemo, carrying up to seven persons, for about $10-$20 a day.
High Read to Bedugul
The road is good enough for cars or motorbikes, although there are several places where deep potholes make driving fast a big risk. It's best is to allow half a day for the route between Kintamani and Luwus, where you meet the main road between Denpasar and Bedugul. This way you can stop along the way, have a coffee in one of the villages and enjoy a leisurely ride.
From Kintamani, follow the main road north until just beyond Penulisan and the Tegeh Koripan temple. Take the small road that branches off to the left towards Belantih village. Continue west past Belantih to Lampu and the neighboring village of Catur, where the road bends south. Lawak village marks the beginning of the vanilla-growing region where the harvest can often be seen drying in shelters.
After Belok (keep right) head for Pelaga. Just before the village there's a sharp right turn which leads to a shortcut west to Lake Bratan. Not many Balinese expose their vehicles to this road though, as chances of ruining them or at least getting stuck are pretty high. Another reason to avoid the shortcut and continue south is that the best has yet to come.
Beyond Pelaga and Kiadan, the elevated area around Nungkung and Sandakan is extremely beautiful. A bit further ahead lies the Islamic village of Angan Tiga with it's small mosque. The next village, Kerta, has a police post and even a bank. Past the bank take the right turn to Bedugul (the road continues straight to Denpasar which is only 32 km away). The stretch of road between Kerta and Luwus via Peria is extremely bad. In Luwus you reach the main road. Turn right for Bedugul or left for Mengwi and Denpasar.
Some hotels are in the lake area of Bedugul proper over looking Lake Bratan, while others are located on the upper slopes of Baturiti with views over volcanoes, rice fields, and down to the sea. Most rooms cost between $15 and $50, with the best ones having great views. There are budget home stays as well as first-class hotels.
Ashram between Bedugul and Candi Kuning. 27 rooms. The new cottages on the hill are clean, convenient and overlook Lake Bratan. Restaurant with strict dining times, the latest being 9 pm. Huts near the lake are great places to eat or just have a drink. Tennis court and table tennis. Bungalows $11, room with outside bath $10-$17.
Bedugul on the main road south of Bedugul. 16 bungalows. One of its restaurants is on the lake. Rooms by the lake get a bit noisy, especially on weekends. $12.
Bukit Permai on the main road south of Bedugul. 13 rooms. Some of the bungalows face Bedugul's botanical garden. Fireplace in all rooms. $15-$25.
Ibu Hadi A 3-story home stay on JI. Kebun Raya. 11 rooms with private bath. Proudly presented as "Hotel & Restaurant." $8, including breakfast.
Ula Graha between Candi Kuning and Bedugul.15 rooms. Across from Ashram. Pleasant individual bungalows. Very private. Go for the rooms overlooking the lake. $13-$30.
Mawar Indah JI. Kebun Raya. 18 rooms. Simple and clean. Restaurant. $9.
Mini Bali Home stay On the left side of the main road past the Bukit Permai. 7 rooms. Clean and simple, with a restaurant. $3-$7.
Rosela Jl. Kebun Raya. 11 rooms. Simple and clean, situated on small side street. $6.50-$9.
Strawberry Hill Just left of the main road where it forks off to the Bedugul Hotel. 10 simple rooms with hot water. Clean, basic losmen. Blankets provided for cool nights. Restaurant serves Indonesian favorites, soup, salad, chicken, and burgers. $7, including breakfast.
Pancasari Inn Jl. Raya Bedugul, Singaraja, Desa Pancasari. 11 bungalows, each with two rooms. North of Lake Bratan. Tennis court. Special rates for groups of five or more. $25-$55.
First Class ($75-$100)
There are several first class hotels in the Bedugul area and more are under construction. The Ball Handara Country Club is geared to the needs of international golfers, while the Pacung, south, on the road to Baturiti, offers a view over rice fields and volcanoes. Both have comfortable bungalows with private baths and hot water. Fridge and TV are standard, as is in-house video. 21% tax and service surcharge.
Bali Handara Kosaido Country Club Pancasari. Located by Mount Bratan. 77 rooms. Has an internationally renown 18-hole golf course, listed among the world's top 50. Rooms in the new wing are hotel style; older bungalows are scattered about the garden. Tennis court and gym. Standard & superior $85-$120, suites $180-$350, bungalow $155-$210. Golf green fees for 18 holes: $95 weekdays, $110 weekends.
Buyan Cottages JI. Raya Baturiti, Desa Pancasari. 16 rooms overlooking
Lake Buyan in Pancasari village. $90.
DINING IN BEDUGUL
There are only a few restaurants in Bedugul but they do cover a wide price range. Opposite the road leading up to the botanical gardens, on a right hand bend, there are three small eating places serving cheap meals from 6 am to 7 pm. A good meal costs around $1. Try the ferns (sayur pakul at Ananda I. Friendly service.
There are good restaurants in the main hotels: The Bedugul Hotel's restaurant by the lake serves meals costing around $7. Try the Chinese food at Pacung, especially their crab fried rice (nasi goreng kepiting). The Bali Handara's Kamandalu Restaurant is more up market. Strawberry Hill serves tasty Indonesian favorites, soups, fresh salads, steaks, and fish. On chilly days and evenings savor a drink at Bedugul's only bar beside a log fire. Managed by the owners of Poppies in Kuta.
Indonesian food is available in front of Ulun Danu temple in small food stalls-not recommended for those with sensitive stomachs. Overlooking the temple and a big banyan tree is the Perama Tea House, a small restaurant by the lake. The open-air patio is a pleasant spot for a refreshing cup of tea. Try their pisang bakar Candikuning grilled banana with grated cheese on top.
Ayam Bakar Taliwang Bersaudara is just before the famous Ulun Danu temple and has a view over the temple and the lake. A favorite with locals. The spicy hot dishes from Lombok are just right for the cold weather. Order the sate or tofu if you don't like food too spicy. $4. Jember Indah is on the higher slopes just outside Bedugul. Cheap east Javanese food and beautiful views down to the sea. Try the soto Madura for $4. Minang Saiyo, in front of Candi Kuning market, sells spicy Sumatran Padang fare.
gain-don't feel reluctant to offer half the asking price. Also available are fresh flowers, including wild orchids and a number of other ornamental plants.
Some small shops selling souvenir crafts are found around Pura Ulun Danu and the lake. Shops in the Bedugul Hotel compound sell film.
A range of water sports are available next to the Ulun Danu temple and at the lakeside hotels such as Bedugul and Lila Graha. The usual rates, including insurance, are as follows:
$20 for 30 mins.
Bali - Munduk
Telephone code is 0362
The village of Munduk, actually in the Buleleng administrative regency, is located on a ridge along the mountain road leading from Wanagiri, just north of Pancasari to Mayong, some 25 km south of Singaraja as the crow flies. Overlooking coffee and clove plantations, the area comprises the pristine Lake Tamblingan with its traditional fishing community, as well as nearby forests, waterfalls and some of the most beautiful views on the island.
Munduk is a perfect base for treks into the mountainous Balinese hinterland. You can walk to Mt. Lesong (1,860 m), around Lake Tamblingan or visit the area's five waterfalls.
Munduk is the center for an innovative community tourism development project. The village, which has strong links with the Hotel and Tourism Training Institute in Nusa Dua, has set up a number of activites for visitors, centered around Puri Lumbung Cottages (see below).
Go from Bedugul to the Pancasari bemo termnal for Rp1000, then take a bemo to Munduk for Rp. l,500. Alternatively hop on the bemo at the Pempatan crossing.
If you hire a car or motorbike, drive cautiously on the road down to Munduk-it's steep and treacherous.
The Calaspa, Located on the cool Bedugul mountain resort. The resort is surrounded by the untouched tropical rain forest with varius kind of flora and fauna. Two story bulding with spa treatment room, spa center with wet treatment facilities, featuring fusion cousin using of local and imported ingredients.
Wisata Old Dutch house transformed into a home stay. Simple, clean.
$15-$20. Try to bargain.
Bali - Jatiluwih and Penebel
The hot springs of Penebel and the rice terraces of Jatiluwih make the slopes of the Mount Batukau (2,276 m) well worth visiting.
These areas are most easily reached by bemo from Tabanan or Mengwi in the south via Pacung. The village of Blayu, just north of Mengwi, is worth a stop-off for those interested in handicrafts. It is famous throughout Bali for weaving and woodcarving.
Penebel Hot Spring and Yeh Panes Spa, Desa Penatahan, Penebel. 16 private and semi-private spas, all equipped with air blowers and water jets. Four, six and eight person spas available. 16 rooms. $70.
Soka Restaurant in Jatiluwih serves good Indonesian and Chinese food for $10.
Tanah Lot Bali
Shortly before Tabanan on the main highway from Denpasar a signboard directs you southwest to Tanah Lot. Alternative access if north of Legian, turning west toward Canggu, following the signs to Tanah Lot. There are a number of shops and restaurants nearby. Tourists congregate at this Balinese landmark by the busloads at sunset.
ACCOMMODATIONS IN TANAH LOT
Dewi Sinta Cottages Jl. Tanah Lot, Kediri, Tabanan. 27 rooms. Spacious new suites and deluxe rooms with golf course, both with complete facilities. Original standard rooms with tub and shower. All AC. Block of fan only rooms faces lovely pool and golf course with cold shower only. Nice restaurant. Clean and friendly. $17-$21 fan, $30-$35 standard, $60-$65 deluxe, $80-$85 suite.
Le Meridian Nirwana Resort PO Box 124, Kediri, Tanah Lot. 284 rooms. Luxury hotel set in the midst of 18-hole Greg Norman-designed golf course. Even most garden-view rooms have some ocean view. Marine Spa with Thalasso therapy treatment, tennis, squash, fitness center, swimming pools and lagoon with man-made white sand beach, museum, salon, kid's Pirate Club, amphitheater. Five minute walk to Tanah Lot temple. Rooms $190-$210, suites $350-$900, bungalows $450-$700, resort homes $220-$350, villas $500-$550.
Pondok Wisata Astiti Graha Good value rooms, clean and tidy and away from the crowds. $10 includes breakfast.
Mutiara Tanah Lot. 10 rooms. Two blocks of simple rooms with carpet, AC, TV, patio with garden view. Large restaurant frequented by tour groups. $60 AC, including tax, service and breakfast.
DINING IN TANAH LOT
Recommended are Dewi Sinta Restaurant at the hotel of the same name and Bali Lestari Restaurant. Several upscale dining outlets are at Le Meriden Resort and Nirwana Golf Club.
Shopping Numerous outlets surround the entrance to the temple in organized market fashion. Aside from the usual Balinese souvenirs, clothing and novelties, there are the Polo Ralph Lauren outlet and a BDFS (Bali Duty Free Shop) offering counterfeit branded goods. There are film outlets and money changers. Mertha Ayu, further inland, has dry goods. Golf Nirwana Bali Golf Club is an 18-hole, par 71, Greg Norman designed course, opened in 1997. The course winds among active rice fields, a dozen family temples, the resort hotel and residential villas, with views of Tanah Lot from several holes. Two holes shoot from cliff top to cliff top across the Indian Ocean. The membership course is open to resort guests. Visitors may play at management's discretion.
Dances Kecak dances are held near the temple gate on an irregular basis. Call Dewi Sinta Hotel to confirm 6.30 performance.
Bali - Krambitan
Located to the southwest of Tabanan, Krambitan is a small town which was once the center of a small principality. Its court culture is retained in the area's particular styles of dance and painting. A branch of the current Tabanan royal family owns the two palaces here.
The main attraction here, besides the quiet, everyday village life, is to order your own dinner and calonarang trance play performance in one of the palaces, which also offers rooms for rent. The whole village participates in these shows," and members of the royal family welcome you as their guests.
get there, continue west from Tabanan until you see an intersection
and a road to the left with a sign indicating "Krambitan 5 km."
The puri (palaces) of Krambitan have opened their doors to tourists who wish to experience life in a Balinese palace. The Puri Agung Wisata has cheaper rooms, but the Puri Anyar is recommended. Don't expect hotel-style service, however, as the palaces have no trained staff-which actually adds to their charm.
Puri Anyar Krambitan. 9 rooms. The saren bungalows are where the royal family used to live, so this is not a typical hotel. They prepare lunch and dinner for $25 and $35, respectively. The Puri Anyar stages fantastic torchlit dance dinners on request or for the big Nusa Dua hotels. They also offer village cultural tours and kite flying parties. $75 with breakfast.
Beebees Restaurant and Bungalows. 6 bungalows in Tibubiyu, Krambitan. Bungalows set in lush tropical greenery with ocean and village sounds harmonizing in the distance. Very peaceful. $21-$25, including fruit and breakfast.
number of small new resorts have recently been opened on the beaches
west of Tanah Lot:
Balian Beach Bungalows Lalang Linggah, Selemadeg, Tabanan, 12 small bungalows. 50 km west of Denpasar; look for the sign past the Soka Indah Restaurant. Set amidst a coconut plantation, the rooms face the Balian River, 33 m from the beach. Bob Monk house, the manager, knows a lot about the area. Great surfing. Swim in the river. Small bar and restaurant. $10-$30, including tax and service.
Sacred River Retreat Lalang Linggah, Selemadeg, Tabanan. 14 rooms. Pegged as an "alternative resort," designed for relaxation, contemplation, inspiring the soul and experiencing the "real Bali." Inclusive package includes transfers, bungalow, meals and drinks (excluding bar), massage, body scrub, guided tours, culture performance, healing ceremonies and local rituals. Vegetarian restaurant, pool, seminar room, yoga and meditation room, massage salon, waterfall, beach 200 meters away. Starts at $25 per person. Inclusive package, 2 nights $216. Kids under 5 years 50% discount, free for third child under 5.
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